Originally conceptualized as a fine dining establishment, Silver Apricot was meant to bring a modern yet unique take on Chinese-American cuisine. Owner Emmeline Zhao envisioned an intricate and elaborate experience centered around a tasting menu filled with inventive dishes. But then the COVID-19 pandemic hit, and with it, the duo’s initial fine dining concept shifted.
“When the pandemic hit, we partnered with Rethink Food to provide 500-1000 meals a week for frontline workers and those in need. Our experience over the first few months of COVID had so drastically changed our outlook on what our city needed that we decided to pivot our concept to best serve our community,” Zhao recalls. “In a time of economic downturn and a public health crisis, a luxury experience with a high ticket price felt tone deaf to the needs of the city that has given us so much.”
Since then, Silver Apricot has evolved into a neighborhood staple with one goal in mind—to share the story of what it means to be Chinese-American today.
Before you dive into the story below, check out our Inspectors’ take here.
The restaurant’s name, “Silver Apricot,” draws inspiration from the ginkgo tree—a symbol of resilience and cultural fusion present in both Chinese and American landscapes. “The ginkgo is known for its fan-like leaves that have been used for centuries in traditional Chinese medicine and cooking,” explains Zhao. “The ginkgo’s huge presence in New York (they stopped planting ginkgos in the 1990s due to the smell, but there are still some scattered around the city), along with its historical significance spanning through generations and cultures—we felt that there couldn’t be a better representation of what we’re doing here.”
That fusion of cultures is exemplified in the cuisine, where local and seasonal ingredients come together in creative dishes that are inspired by Chinese-American culture.
“No one has quite celebrated the cuisine of Chinese-Americans yet,” Zhao explains. “As a first generation Chinese-American, I experienced home cooked American-Chinese food in a way only those of our generation did. My parents used what ingredients they could find to cook with techniques from home—collard greens for bok choy, hot dogs for Chinese sausage, dried spaghetti for noodles, and zucchini for loofah.”
“We are in many ways, carving out a new cuisine that we are calling ‘New American-Chinese.’”
So what exactly does “New American-Chinese” cuisine look like? In lieu of the all too familiar cheap take-out options like General Tso’s chicken and beef with broccoli, instead think Berkshire pork short ribs, American wagyu bavette, and scallion puffs (which also happens to be Zhao’s must-have dish from the menu). Another must order is the crispy bits fried rice—which is inspired by Bo Zai Fan (Cantonese clay pot rice) and Zhao’s upbringing.
“By offering both great service and Chinese-inspired food, we’re able to tell the story of a generation of Chinese-Americans that to this day, have not been well represented in restaurants,” Zhao adds.
For Silver Apricot though, celebration of culture and heritage doesn’t stop at the food. Zhao, who is also the sommelier, has curated a beverage program that highlights women and immigrant-owned businesses.
“If we’re celebrating what it means to be Chinese-American today, it’s only appropriate to highlight the incredible things new age American producers are doing,” Zhao tells me. “Diversity drives discourse, learning, and innovation. It is only through continued support of representation in wine that we’ll be able to propel the industry forward.”
As Silver Apricot continues to evolve and grow, one thing remains constant: its unwavering dedication to serving its community. Here, staff members are ensured job security through fully subsidized health insurance, employer-matched 401(k) plans, and paid time off. “Our business grew out of a need to serve the community,” says Zhao. “That’s why community is everything to us. Our community of staff, neighbors, and regulars all contribute to who we are.” In a world where restaurants often come and go, Silver Apricot stands as a testament to the enduring power of culinary excellence and social responsibility.