Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 J.N. Shapiro

Tom Austin

• Zenith partners with J.N. Shapiro for the second release in its Double Signed programme, limited to 25 pieces.
• A silver dial combines three hand-applied guilloché patterns, while the Calibre 135 receives American-inspired damaskeening.
• The rose gold watch features a manually wound, COSC-certified movement with a 72-hour power reserve.

A second signature on a dial is one thing. Giving that collaborator room to change the movement’s decoration makes for a rather more interesting partnership. That’s the appeal of the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with J.N. Shapiro: the California independent’s contribution extends beyond the dial to the bridges visible through the sapphire caseback. The Swiss movement remains the foundation, but its decorative language takes a distinctly American turn.

The G.F.J., named after Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot, already brings together several strands of the manufacture’s identity. Our assessment of the original G.F.J. Calibre 135 explored its combination of a revived movement, lapis lazuli and brick-pattern decoration. This year’s G.F.J. variations in tantalum and yellow gold broadened that proposition with onyx and bloodstone. Shapiro’s version takes another route, making engine turning, rather than stone, the centre of attention.

Founded in Joshua Shapiro’s home workshop in 2018, J.N. Shapiro Watches began with guilloché dials before expanding into its own Caliber 26 movement and Resurgence watch. That background gives this collaboration a clear purpose. Rather than simply borrowing a recognisable pattern, Zenith has invited a maker whose practice encompasses both dial-making and movement manufacture to reinterpret its dress watch.

The rose gold case measures 39.15mm across, 10.5mm thick and 45.75mm lug-to-lug. Those dimensions suggest restrained proportions rather than an oversized showcase for the dial, although they’re no substitute for trying it on. Water resistance is rated at 5 ATM. The case provides a warm-toned frame, repeated in the applied dial furniture and solid-gold hands, while leaving the silver engine turning to supply the visual complexity.

Made entirely in Shapiro’s California atelier, the dial uses a silver base decorated by hand with rose-engine and straight-line machines. Three patterns divide its surface: barleycorn around the outside, basketweave in the centre, and Shapiro’s signature Infinity Weave within the small seconds at six o’clock. It’s a useful way of differentiating the display’s sections without introducing several colours or materials. Here, the variety comes from the geometry of the cuts.

Applied 18k rose gold rings frame those textures, accompanied by rose gold hour markers and plates carrying the Zenith and J.N. Shapiro signatures and G.F.J. initials. There’s plenty happening, but the repeated metal colour gives the composition a connecting thread. For anyone drawn to engine turning, the appeal is the opportunity to compare three treatments within one dial rather than having a single pattern dominate everything.

The earlier Double Signed collaboration with Naoya Hida & Co. concentrated its reinterpretation on the dial and hands. Shapiro’s edition also changes the view from the back. The Calibre 135’s bridges receive rhodium-plated damaskeening, a finish Zenith describes as combining elements of Côtes de Genève and guilloché. According to the manufacture, this decoration frequently appeared on historic American pocket watches. That gives the Swiss-American connection a material expression, rather than leaving it to the names on the front.

Importantly, the decorative changes don’t replace the movement’s practical attractions. The modern, manually wound Calibre 135 runs at 18,000 VpH, or 2.5Hz, and provides 72 hours of power reserve. Fully wound, it offers three days between windings, useful if the watch shares wrist time with something else. A stop-second mechanism allows the seconds hand to be halted when setting the time. Zenith specifies regulation to ±2 seconds per day and COSC certification; those are stated specifications, not a hands-on timing result.

The movement also retains a large balance with a Breguet overcoil and Charles Fleck’s characteristic double arrow-shaped regulator. Three supplied straps offer different presentations: brown Cordovan leather, beige nubuck alligator leather and black calf leather. Each can use the 18k rose gold pin buckle engraved with the G.F.J. initials, while an 18k rose gold bracelet is available upon request.

What makes this collaboration particularly interesting is just how much of Shapiro’s work is on display. From the intricate guilloché dial to the beautifully decorated Calibre 135, his influence runs throughout the watch, bringing a distinctly American touch to one of Zenith’s most celebrated movements. Of course, at CHF 68,900 and with just 25 pieces available, this is a watch destined for a very select group of collectors. But with this level of craftsmanship involved, and two watchmakers bringing their respective expertise together, there’s plenty to admire.

Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with J.N. Shapiro pricing and availability

The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with J.N. Shapiro is limited to 25 pieces and is available through Zenith retailers. Price: CHF 68,900