Universal Geneve Compax | INTRODUCING

Borna Bošnjak

• Universal Genève’s recognisable Compax shape returns in a 1970s, Nina Rindt-inspired form.
• Six total references make up the new Compax collection, with steel, yellow gold, or rose gold cases measuring 39.5mm in diameter.
• The new UG-200 calibre is a column wheel chronograph with automatic, Microtor winding. Prices start at CHF 15,500.

To go along with the 11 new Polerouters that Universal Genève is launching as part of their revival, we have also been treated to a sextet of Compax chronographs closely resembling the iconic “Nina Rindt” reference of the 1970s. Three models form part of the brand’s permanent collection (that’s Prêt-à-porter in UG speak now), and they cover the classics – a panda-dialled Nina on a bund strap, an Evil Nina reverse panda, and a luxe rose gold variant. The seasonal Capsule collection is certainly a departure from the aesthetic I expected, but in line with the brand’s motto of couturier de la montre and high fashion-inspired direction.

At 39.5mm in diameter, the new Compax has grown to a contemporary size compared to the original’s 36mm, though still keeping it compact and wearable with a ~12.5mm thickness and ~48mm lug-to-lug. You have a choice of steel or rose gold for the case, all outfitted with engraved ceramic bezels and those delectable lyre lugs. The choice of a bund strap will surely divide opinions, but in my eyes, it’s a no-brainer as a historical nod to the woman who gave the watch its name (and the additional leather piece just as easily removed if you’re not cool enough to rock it).

Rather than reference a specific model, UG has done a bit of mixing and matching to come up with the final design for their permanent Compax collection. For example, you’ll see the applied “U” logo and split “Universal” and “Genève” evocative of early ref. 885103/02 dials, while the block sub-dial hands appeared on later dials with a printed logo instead, combining the best of both worlds, if you ask me. The one design aspect that you won’t find on any of the Nina Compaxes, Evil or otherwise, is the additional rehaut printed with seconds. UG did use it on the Compax, but you’ll find it instead on some of the super-collectable “exotic” references with colourful dials.

Speaking of things you won’t find in Universal Genève’s archives, we have the Compax Capsule collection. Maybe some of that “exotic” dial thinking seeped into the making of these, as they’re all about bold expressions of colour and texture. They share the same case dimensions as the ready-to-wear Compax, but are all equipped with linen-textured, lacquered dials in pastel colours, with matching leather straps. The singular steel reference gets a denim blue highlight, the rose gold piece is rendered in lavender, while the final Capsule Compax goes a bit Aussie in yellow gold and green. I know it’s “sage”, but it’s close enough!

If these colourful new references didn’t surprise you, I am certain the choice of movement will. The column wheel, vertical clutch, and 72-hour power reserve you’d have all expected, but what about the fact that this is a micro-rotor? Okay, as far as micro-rotors go, this one is quite macro, and similarly to the new Polerouter and its UG-110 movement, has the oscillating weight float on top of a bunch of other components, rather than sit fully alongside them. Micro-rotors are rare enough as it is in either micro or marco execution, and to see one on a chronograph is even more uncommon and genuinely exciting. From memory, Roger Dubuis was the last brand to do this, and after that, you have to go as far back as the original Chronomatic and its Buren-developed micro-rotor base, coincidentally revealed around the same time as UG’s first micro-rotor attempt.

Decoration-wise, the UG-200 packs a good punch, especially considering what’s on offer at this price point – remember, the Polerouter starts at nearly an identical sum, and the level of finishing between them is comparable. I’m sure a decent degree is machine-executed, but the end product is pleasant, and I especially like the contrast between perlage and Geneva striping, separated by the thin bevelling.

Universal Genève Compax 2026 collection pricing and availability

Universal Genève’s new Compax collection is split into Prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) and Capsule collections. The former will be mainstays of their offering, while the Capsule models are “limited seasonal editions”. Price: CHF 15,500 (steel, bund), CHF 17,000 (steel, bracelet), CHF 18,500 (steel, indigo), CHF 38,010 (rose gold, Prêt-à-porter), CHF 39,900 (rose gold, Capsule)