GENEVA – From ultra-thin grand complications to space-ready tool watches to high-jewellery creations, these are the standout pieces in part two of The Straits Times’ round-up of the hottest tickers at the world’s biggest watch fair.
The 41mm case of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked combines lightweight titanium with accents in Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) on the bezel, caseback frame and bracelet studs
PHOTO: AUDEMARS PIGUET
Audemars Piguet has given one of its signature complications a contemporary update with the new Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked.
The 41mm case is just 9.5mm thick and combines lightweight titanium with accents in Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) on the bezel, caseback frame and bracelet studs.
The sapphire dial reveals the Calibre 7139, and Smoked sub-dials display the day, date, month, leap year, moon phase and week indication in a layout that remains notably clear for such a complex watch.
The movement measures 4.1mm thick and allows all perpetual calendar functions to be adjusted through the crown alone, removing the need for recessed correctors. Beating at 4Hz with a 55-hour power reserve and 50m water resistance, it is a high-complication watch designed for regular wear.
Price: 180,300 Swiss francs (S$293,000)
The Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive does not have a crown.
PHOTO: IWC
IWC has taken its tool-watch expertise into orbit with the new Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, a watch designed specifically for human spaceflight rather than adapted from an existing model. Developed with American aerospace company Vast, it has been certified for use aboard the Haven-1 commercial space station.
Its most distinctive feature is the absence of a crown. Instead, functions are controlled through a rotating bezel linked to the movement via IWC’s new Vertical Drive system, while a rocker switch on the case selects winding or time-setting modes. The set-up is designed for easier use while wearing gloves.
Tested for vibration, pressure changes and extreme temperatures, the watch measures 44.3mm across and 16.7mm thick. It has a white zirconium oxide ceramic case, Ceratanium bezel and caseback, and a white FKM rubber strap.
Inside is the automatic Calibre 32722, offering a second time zone, date and a 120-hour power reserve.
Price: $37,500
The bracelet of the new Cartier Santos-Dumont has 15 rows and 394 links, and is just 1.15mm thick
PHOTO: CARTIER
Cartier has given the Santos-Dumont a notable update with a new large model (43.5mm by 31.4mm by 7.3mm) in yellow gold or platinum, a supple precious-metal bracelet and a striking silvery satin-finished or obsidian dial.
The bracelet is the main talking point: 15 rows, 394 links and just 1.15mm thick, inspired by Cartier’s flexible gold bracelets of the 1920s.
The standout version pairs yellow gold with a gilded black obsidian dial cut to 0.3mm. Cartier says the stone comes from Mexico and reveals subtle iridescence through naturally trapped air bubbles.
The collection is powered by the hand-wound 430 MC movement, which has a 36-hour power reserve. It is a thoughtful update that respects the original while feeling thoroughly modern.
Price: From $65,500 to $81,500
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-winding Ultra-Thin is powered by the new Calibre 2550, an automatic movement just 2.4mm thick.
PHOTO: VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Vacheron Constantin’s new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin measures 39.5mm across and 7.35mm thick, making it the thinnest model in the collection to date.
Inside is the new Calibre 2550, an automatic movement just 2.4mm thick. Thanks to a platinum micro-rotor and suspended double barrel, it still delivers an 80-hour power reserve.
The 950 platinum case is paired with a salmon-toned dial, while the watch retains the Overseas quick-change system and 50m water resistance. Limited to 255 boutique-only pieces.
Price: $159,000
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic 37 is smaller, sharper and more compact on the wrist.
PHOTO: BVLGARI
Bvlgari has taken its ultra-thin Octo Finissimo Automatic in a new direction: smaller, sharper and more compact on the wrist.
The new 37mm Automatic keeps the collection’s slim profile, but it is a full redesign rather than a simple resize, with a new calibre, revised case architecture and a push-button clasp.
At its heart is the in-house BVF 100, a 2.35mm-thick micro-rotor movement that delivers 72 hours of power reserve and a 20 per cent reduction in volume versus the outgoing automatic calibre.
The watch measures 37mm by 6.45mm and is offered in titanium ($23,400 and $24,400) or yellow gold ($67,000), with a cleaner case-to-bracelet transition and radiating Cotes de Geneve finishing on the movement.
The Coco Game Chess Set with pieces crafted in ceramic, white gold and diamonds.
PHOTO: CHANEL
Chanel’s 2026 watch collection gets playful with Coco Game, a 14-piece capsule that turns the Coco Chanel motif into a graphic character inspired by chessboards, playing cards and retro video games.
The highlight – The Coco Game Chess Set – is a headturner. The pieces – crafted in ceramic, white gold and diamonds – take the form of Chanel icons: a pawn, Vendome column, mannequin bust, lion and a tweed-clad Mademoiselle Chanel as the white or black queen.
The two queen pieces themselves are the cleverest detail. Hidden beneath each base is a watch. Lift them from the board and they become pendant timepieces, worn on a diamond, onyx and white-gold chain stored discreetly inside the chessboard.
In line with the theme, the J12 is offered in several versions.
Black and white ceramic models feature pixel-style Coco graphics integrated into the display, while the J12 X-Ray Coco Game ($1,193,700) pairs sapphire crystal with white gold to showcase Chanel’s hand-wound Calibre 3.1, a skeleton movement with sapphire bridges and mainplate.
The J12 X-Ray Coco Game pairs sapphire crystal with white gold to showcase Chanel’s hand-wound Calibre 3.1.
PHOTO: CHANEL