At the Lead World Cup in Chamonix on Sunday, Team Japan’s Ai Mori took first placed after she topped the women’s final route. She was joined on the podium by Jessica Pilz of Austria in second and teammate Mei Kotake in third. Mori and Pilz are participating in the Paris Olympics later this summer.
The women’s final route in Chamonix appeared to be relatively easy compared to other Lead World Cup final routes in recent memory. All eight climbers made it to the upper headwall portion of the route. Two climbers touched the final hold but could not hold the position – three if you count Annie Sanders who timed out earlier on the route but continued to climb to the top. Two other climbers – Mori and Pilz – topped the route, with Mori winning due to countback to semi-final standings. Pilz sent with route with apparent ease. Mori had some difficulties here and there, but viewers could tell she wasn’t pushed to her limit.
“I’m super happy to be on the podium but it’s a bit annoying that we couldn’t have a really good fight in finals,” said Pilz after her silver medal win. “I feel the route was a bit easy. I like to have a good fight. I would rather not top and have a good fight.”
Mori’s win marks her fifth gold medal across Lead World Cup and Lead World Championship competition. She won gold in at Lead World Cups in Edinburgh and Koper in 2022, Wujiang in 2023, and now Chamonix in 2024. She also earned gold at the Lead World Championships last summer, besting Janja Garnbret. Placing third in the Boulder & Lead Combined World Championships, she earned her Paris Olympic ticket.
“I thought that Jessica [Pilz] maybe got a top so I was a very nervous, but I looked out and saw the big crowd, and that big crowd pushed my performance,” said Mori after her Chamonix win. “When I got the top I was very happy. I’ll go back to Japan now and then it’s straight to the Olympics, and I’ll do my best there.”
Most of the women competing in the Paris Olympics Boulder & Lead event did not participate in Chamonix. Big names like Janja Garnbret, Natalia Grossman, Brooke Raboutou, Oriane Bertone, Chaehyun Seo, Laura Rogora, and Miho Nonaka, among others, sat out of the event, choosing to instead train for their Olympic appearence less than one month away.
Final Results
- Ai Mori (JPN) TOP
- Jessica Pilz (AUT) TOP
- Mei Kotake (JPN) 44+
- Zélia Avezou (FRA) 44+
- Flora Oblasser (AUT) 42+
- Mattea Pötzi (AUT) 42+
- Annie Sanders (USA) 41+
- Mia Krampl (SLO) 41+