The Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction – 200th Anniversary Edition marks a symbolic milestone for the Glashütte manufacture. Beneath an appearance of continuity, this watch revisits an emblematic model with a measured approach, where every detail seems designed to evolve established codes without breaking them. A proposition that both intrigues and raises questions about the direction taken by the German house.
A case true to Glashütte, balanced presence on the wrist
The Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction from Moritz Grossmann retains a classic architecture with a 39 mm diameter case and a thickness of 8.5 mm. These proportions ensure a balanced presence, suited to a contemporary dress watch.
Two versions are offered: white gold and, for the first time in this line, yellow gold. The latter brings a warmer tone to a historically understated model. The case features a fully polished finish, with a slim bezel and slightly tapered lugs that extend the line of the wrist.
The sapphire caseback reveals the movement, while the overall construction follows a three-part assembly. The watch is fitted with a hand-stitched green alligator leather strap, paired with a pin buckle matching the case metal.
A silver-plated dial by friction, a rare craft signature
The dial is one of the most distinctive elements of this edition. It is crafted using a historical technique: friction silvering, a manual process dating back to the 19th century. This treatment involves applying a paste made of silver powder, salt, and cream of tartar, followed by meticulous brushing and polishing. The result is a matte, velvety texture that is difficult to reproduce industrially.
For this anniversary edition, the brand introduces green accents on the Arabic numerals, hour markers, and the historical “M. Grossmann” logo. This touch subtly alters the perception of the dial.
The hands, made by hand, differ depending on the version:
- Polished gold for the yellow gold model ;
- Heat-treated steel with a brown-violet hue for the white gold version.
The design remains clean, with displays for hours, minutes, and small seconds, staying true to the minimalist spirit of the collection.
An in-house caliber 102.1 at the heart of Saxon tradition
The transparent caseback of the Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction reveals the caliber 102.1, a manual-winding mechanical movement with a thickness just over 3.5 mm. Its construction follows classic Glashütte principles:
- Three-quarter plate ;
- Screw-mounted gold chatons ;
- Hand-engraved balance cock.
The movement consists of 188 components and 22 jewels, some set in gold chatons. The screw balance ensures precise adjustment, while the frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) favors stability.
The power reserve reaches 48 hours, suitable for daily use. Finishing alternates between frosted, polished, and fluted surfaces, with hand-worked angles.
A specific detail appears on this edition: the engraving “1826” on the balance cock, referencing the birth year of Moritz Grossmann.
Limited production and premium positioning
The Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, available since last April, is produced in 12 pieces per version, reinforcing its exclusivity. Pricing is as follows:
- €52,500 for the white gold version ;
- €54,300 for the yellow gold version.
For reference, a non-limited rose gold version is positioned lower, at around €46,600.
Summary table
| Element | Detail |
|---|---|
| Case | White gold or yellow gold, 39 mm x 8.5 mm, three-part construction |
| Crystal | Sapphire front and back with anti-reflective coating |
| Dial | Brass, friction silvered, green numerals and logo |
| Hands | Polished gold (yellow gold) or brown-violet steel (white gold), handmade |
| Movement | Caliber 102.1, manual winding |
| Components | 188 parts, 22 jewels |
| Frequency | 21,600 vibrations/hour (2.5 Hz) |
| Power reserve | 48 hours |
| Architecture | Three-quarter plate, screw-mounted gold chatons |
| Special feature | “1826” engraving on the balance cock |
| Strap | Hand-stitched green alligator, matching pin buckle |
| Production | 12 pieces per version |
| Price | €52,500 (white gold), €54,300 (yellow gold) |