The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial.
The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look.
Initial thoughts
While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance.
The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun.
The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith.
The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version still makes do with a lacquered dial.
One downside of the natural stone dial is that it results in the use of adhesive appliqués, a common approach for applied markers on such dials to avoid cracking the stone during drilling. Some might feel this cheapens the look, as the applied logo and wordmark are a bit thinner and more rounded than those of the Classic Fusion Original, a 2023 interpretation of the same origin story.
The recent increase in gold prices, the stone dial option, and the presence of a Zenith Elite movement help justify the step up in price from the Classic Fusion Original, but at US$30,900 it’s now priced in line with the Gérald Genta Geneva.
On one hand, that makes sense given the similar sizing and bill of materials — both have 38 mm gold cases and nicely finished versions of the same movement, although the Geneva is slightly thinner. The Gérald Genta brand, however, has a bit more collector cachet.
Carlo Crocco. Image – Hublot
A historical Hublot
This isn’t the first time Hublot has reimagined its debut. The Classic Fusion Original arrived in 2023, combining a plain black lacquered dial with the familiar rubber strap, but it didn’t go nearly as far in terms of capturing the spirit of the 1980s.
For one thing, it stayed close to the contemporary Classic Fusion format, with six H-shaped screws sitting flush with the bezel. The Tributo restores the original 12, with slightly domed screw heads that project above the bezel. In this configuration, the screws stand in for hour markers, giving the otherwise sparse dial a usable reference for reading the time.
This sounds like a minor change, and in some ways it is, but there’s no denying the effect it on the visual identity of the watch, emphasising the porthole inspiration that gave Hublot its name. Hublot was initially the name of a watch made by MDM Genève, not a standalone brand, and the Tributo comes complete with “MDM” printed at six o’clock, a detail absent from the 2023 remake.
Like the “inflated” version of the brand’s logo on the rotor of the Classic Fusion Balloon Dog, the presence of the MDM wordmark on the dial is notable, since luxury marketing best practices seem to eschew these kinds of mixed messages. But it’s an appealing detail that underscores Hublot’s confidence in both its branding and visual language.
The two variants of the Tributo are surprisingly different from one another. Beyond the difference in the dial material, the yellow gold model sports contrasting finishes on its bezel and case, which are brushed and polished, respectively, resulting in an almost two-tone look at some angles. Alternatively, the polished finish of the white gold variant allows its blackened screws to stand out with more contrast.
Quartz no more
The biggest departure from both the quartz-powered original and the 2023 remake lies inside. Hublot’s cal. HUB1711 is a version of the Zenith Elite platform, which has been called into service for LVMH’s upmarket marques with increasing regularity in recent years.
The Hublot-branded Zenith Elite inside. Image – Hublot
Introduced in the mid-1990s, the Elite remains well suited to this application. Its slim 3.7 mm architecture allows an automatic movement to take the place of quartz without turning the Tributo into a thick watch, preserving much of the original’s sleek character.
It’s also a worthwhile upgrade over the ETA 2892 selected for the Classic Fusion Original. Beyond the longer power reserve and improved decoration, the Elite has a more refined construction, including a Triovis regulator in place of Etachron. The in-group calibre is also considerably less commonplace.
As observed on both the Gérald Genta Geneva and Classic Fusion Balloon Dog, the finishing is more elaborate than on basic executions of the Elite. Attractively brushed plates and anthracite-treated components, including the balance wheel, give it an appealing monochromatic look.
Key facts and price
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo
Ref. 262.VX.1130.RX.MDM (yellow gold)
Ref. 262.WX.6870.RX.MDM (white gold)
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 9.5 mm
Material: 18k white or yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: HUB1710
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,000 beats per second (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours
Strap: Rubber strap with titanium folding buckle
Limited edition: No
Availability: At Hublot boutiques and retailers
Price: US$30,900 excluding taxes
For more, visit hublot.com