A total of 88 galleries and creators from 15 countries across four continents will participate in the 10th edition of TEFAF New York, taking place May 15–19. Among them are five exhibitors specializing in contemporary and vintage jewelry: Didier Ltd., FD Gallery, Forms, Hemmerle and Ana Khouri.
Didier and Martine Haspeslagh, founders of Didier Ltd., are longtime participants at both the New York and Maastricht fairs organized by The European Fine Art Foundation. Their London gallery specializes in jewelry created by modern masters—including painters, sculptors and designers—sourced on the secondary market. The gallery helped establish this niche and remains one of the leading voices in the category.
Among the jewels at the Didier Ltd. booth is an 18k yellow gold bracelet by Lucio Fontana
Didier Ltd.
Among the works on view will be Concetto Spaziale Taglio (circa 1960–1962) by Lucio Fontana. The unique 18-karat gold bangle is designed as an ovoid form incised with Fontana’s signature slash motif and mounted on a curved band.
Fiona Druckenmiller and FD Gallery will return to TEFAF with a recreation of the gallery’s Upper East Side salon. The firm specializes in mid-20th-century jewels from major French, Italian and American houses, while also representing contemporary jewelers including JAR, Bhagat and Taffin.
A Bulgari sapphire, turquoise and diamond sautoir necklace will be displayed at the FD Gallery booth
FD Gallery
The gallery will also present works by contemporary French jeweler Alessandro Sabbatini, known professionally as Sabba. Sabbatini produces approximately 30 high jewelry creations annually, all offered exclusively through FD Gallery.
Among the vintage highlights is an elaborate long necklace by Bulgari composed of reeded lapis lazuli and gold bead links accented by kite-shaped gold stations set with carved turquoise, diamonds and onyx plaques. The necklace suspends a detachable starburst pendant centered on an oval cabochon sapphire within a diamond-set gold plaque.
A ring that combines a vivid step-cut emerald paired with a step-cut diamond, each cradled within a shakudo frame
Forms
Hong Kong-based Forms is a newcomer to TEFAF New York, although the high jewelry house has exhibited at TEFAF Maastricht in recent years. Founded in 2010 by Elad Assor and Tzvika Janover, the company produces about 100 pieces annually. Its sculptural jewels incorporate a range of contemporary techniques and materials. One example is a ring featuring a vivid step-cut emerald paired with a step-cut diamond, each cradled within a shakudo frame.
Hemmerle is among the fair’s most celebrated jewelry exhibitors, with its works appearing in museums, auctions and high-profile gala events worldwide. The firm combines traditional craftsmanship with experimental materials and artistic concepts. Ancient artifacts may inspire one jewel, while anodized aluminum or inverted gemstone settings create unexpected effects in another.
Hemmerle white gold earrings combining spessartine garnets, aluminum and bronze
Hemmerle
One recent design expected to be shown at the fair is a pair of earrings combining spessartine garnets, aluminum, bronze and white gold.
Following her recent appearance at the Met Gala and her Gem Award for High Jewelry Excellence, Ana Khouri continues to bridge art, design, craftsmanship and fashion. Khouri has built an international following for her sculptural jewelry, including her textured brown jewels. One piece being featured is a textured brown gold ring in a coiled display topped by a solitary white diamond.
A Bronze Age gold bangle to be displayed at the David Aaron booth
David Aaron
Several exhibitors that do not specialize in jewelry will also feature wearable artifacts and objects of adornment. Among the works presented by London dealer David Aaron is expected to be a Bronze Age gold bracelet formed from a single rectangular sheet of metal curved into a wide penannular bangle.
This article was originally published on Forbes.com