Vanguart is a haute horology brand that has been going from strength to strength recently (unsurprising given that the CEO and CTO are former Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi veterans), while they were founded in 2017 and debuted one of their signature collections in 2020, this year has marked the first time they’ve really started to step into the conversation in a big way. Even from anecdotal experience, as a journalist in the watch industry space I have heard the name Vanguart more times this year than ever before. So what’s all this excitement about? Let’s take a look at their most recent new release to learn more about them, the Vanguart Black Hole Rose Gold.
Off the bat, the Black Hole Rose Gold has a structure unlike anything else. It’s a 45mm case with integrated strap and multi-layer design with elements of openworking that make it look like a space ship. In place of a traditional crown there is two joystick time setting devices that control the hours and minutes respectively – sort of like a button that continually moves the time rather than a winding motion. It’s a fusion of smooth round shapes and sharp angled facets thanks to chamfered edges. This 2025 edition presents the case in rose gold.
The reason for the Avante Garde shape is that the display itself is also highly unusual. At the centre of the dial sits a flying tourbillon, which is the most difficult position to place a tourbillon, while around it are concentric rings of numbers that also curve upwards around the tourbillon as they move out from the centre. Those rings for the linear time display.
Essentially, when you look at the nine o’clock position where the Arabic numerals are oriented vertically so that you can read them, that is the current time. The time is given in the format of a digital display, so first the hours and then the minutes: 12:06, 9:45 and so on. Which is why there are two rings for the minutes with the middle ring giving the tens and the inner ring the units.
This 2025 edition features a more industrial vibe to the rings, which are textured rather than smooth as in previous versions. Alongside the Black Hole Rose Gold edition, Vangaurt actually launched an eastern Arabic numeral version as well to coincide with Dubai Watch Week last month.
The movement that powers this unusual display is the in-house T-1701 with 42-hour power reserve. It consists of a whopping 775 components and is made from titanium for light weight, durable performance. It features hand finished bevels and satin brushing. A lot of the focus unsurprisingly is on the flying tourbillon, which is designed to offset the effects of gravity on the accuracy of a watch’s movement.
As for pricing and availability, the Vanguart Black Hole Rose Gold 2025 is limited to just eight pieces at CHF 410,000 (approx. £385,000). One of the most striking pieces of haute horology around, and certainly a conversation starter.
Price and Specs:
Model: Vanguart Black Hole
Case: 45mm diameter x 15.75mm thickness, titanium grade 5 or rose gold, microblasted exoskeleton with polished bevels
Dial: Concentric 3-tier automaton dial with linear time display, anthracite PVD titanium
Movement: Vanguart in-house levitating flying tourbillon, titanium grade 5 bridges and main plate, 775 parts
Power reserve: 42h
Functions: Hours, minutes, power reserve indicator
Strap: Sand rubber (Arabic) or anthracite rubber (Rose Gold)
Price: CHF 355,000 (Arabic,); CHF 410,000 (rose gold), limited to 8 pieces each
More details at Vanguart.