With Papar’s first watch, the Anillo GMT, the brand established an ethos and design language focused on brutalism, in more ways than one. The multi-faceted case featured many sharp angles, further highlighted by a mix of brushed and polished finishes, making the influence of brutalist architecture quite clear.
That said, the brand’s lifestyle photos featured models displaying a rather vibrant hand gesture, showing that the brand carries a refreshing sense of humour and a heavy dose of confidence. Papar is led by husband-and-wife duo Josh and Emily, who founded the brand in Mexico and now operate in the Berkshire Mountains in Massachusetts, USA. Mixing cultural and design influences, Papar followed up on their compact GMT with its Cenote Diver.
The case
The case of the Papar Cenote takes the design language of the Anillo GMT, scales it up a bit, and applies it to a dive watch. The case is made of grade 2 titanium, and measures 40mm wide, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 10.9mm thick. With a lightweight titanium case, canvas strap, and titanium buckle, the watch weighs a featherlight 60 grams in total.
The main case is octagonal, with a more sqaure/cushion shape compared to other well-known octagonal watches. The squared-off appearance is accentuated by an additional asymmetrical faceted line in each corner, giving the impression there’s been some intention here in the design. The finishing is predominantly brushed, with polished facets on the outer edge of the octagon and the lugs. The uni-directional timing bezel features a ceramic insert with lumed indices, and the case is water-resistant to 200 meters, making the Cenote more than ready for proper dive duty.
There are two versions of the Cenote, one in natural grade 2 titanium, and one with a rose gold PVD coating. The natural titanium model features a matte blue ceramic bezel insert, and the rose gold PVD model has a polished black ceramic bezel insert. The Cenote has a sapphire crystal with AR coating and a solid titanium caseback engraved with a sea-monster rising from the water.
The dial
Papar keeps the whimsical design details going with the dial. Both models feature a sandwich construction, with cutouts for the indices. The plate below the main dial rotates throughout the day, shifting the colour of the hour markers. Both models feature lume on the perimeter of the indices, along with plenty of lume on the hour and minute hands.
The PVD rose gold model features a black dial, with a gradient from white to red palette for the indices. The natural titanium dial features a beige hue with a “lumé” treatment, with luminescent material applied in a fumé style, making for a quite unique look in low light, and a white-to-blue gradient palette for the indices.
The movement
Powering the Papar Cenote is the Miyota 9015, an automatic movement with hacking and hand winding that operates at 28,800 vph and has a 42-hour power reserve. Those familiar with the Miyota 9015 are well aware that its compact 3.9mm thickness allows for a relatively thin case, especially when used in a highly water-resistant watch. The 9015 is a widely used and reliable movement, making it an appropriate choice for a relatively compact sports watch like the Cenote.
The strap
Papar equips the Cenote with a 20mm-wide sailcloth strap that matches the bezel colour. Each model comes with a grade 2 titanium pin-buckle that matches the case finish. The straps are equipped with quick-release spring bars, making for easy strap swaps, which would be a fun way to accentuate the colours of the gradient indices.
The verdict
Despite the ongoing frequency of fresh releases, we continue to be surprised by how small independent brands manage to surprise us with truly unique and eye-catching designs. In some ways, developing a unique sports watch may seem even more difficult lately, but at the same time, collectors’ openness to something fresh means that as long as you’re bold and confident, it’s also never been easier. Papar has achieved both with their watches, as they feel bold, unique, and not trying to conform to the norm. The design successfully balances broad appeal and a strong personality.
The case of the Papar Cenote (along with its Anillo GMT) almost reminds me of a contemporary reimagining of the Roger Dubuis Sympathy cases. Even with that similarity, Papar has enough of its own unique design language for the Cenote to feel wholly its own. If you find yourself looking for a diver that is not another round, black-dialed, 40mm steel-cased watch, the Papar Cenote is a fun one to consider.
Papar Cenote pricing and availability
The Papar Cenote is available now through the Papar website, with the initial run limited to 100 numbered watches per colour. Price: US$995
| Brand | Papar |
| Model | Cenote |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 10.9mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Grade 2 titanium, natural or PVD rose gold |
| Water Resistance | 200 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Black or Beige “lumé” |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | 20mm Black or blue sailcloth strap with grade 2 titanium pin-buckle |
| Movement | Miyota 9015, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42-hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | US$995 |