Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt

Andrew O’Connor

• Daniel Roth expands its Extra Plat collection with a new variant with a gilt dial.
• Daniel Roth utilises the true gilt method, exposing the dial material beneath a coated surface treatment to give the indices and dial the iconic multi-dimensional look.
• The new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt is now available and priced at CHF 55,000.

When LVMH revived the Daniel Roth brand in 2023, it was following a recent revival in interest among collectors, particularly models from the brand’s early days. The original Daniel Roth Ultra-Thin Automatic arrived in 1990, only two years after Daniel Roth himself started his eponymous brand, and was followed by the Ultra-Thin Manual in 1991. As with Daniel Roth’s original watches, the LVMH revival has followed a similar release schedule, starting with the Tourbillon Souscription in 2023 and unveiling the modern Ultra Plat in 2025. These models stay faithful to the original designs, while modernising both the dimensions and internals.

While the first modern Extra Plat models stayed true to the Daniel Roth design cues collectors are likely familiar with, focusing on guilloché dials in metallic tones, there was a black-dialled variation of the original Ultra-Thin Manual reference 2167. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Daniel Roth brings a black-dialled variation of its Extra Plat model, modernising something old and making it new again in more ways than one.

The dial for this Daniel Roth Extra Plat is the star of the show. Besides the deep black colour and guilloché vertical striping, the dial is a modern execution of a true gilt dial. The gold-toned indices and markings are not achieved by printing, but by revealing the dial material beneath the treated surface. The solid gold dial is first decorated by hand on a rose engine, then the indices are masked onto the dial with varnish using an ultra-precise, semi-automated pad printing process. The machinery used is accurate to a hundredth of a millimetre, ensuring high levels of accuracy and consistency in the process.

The dial then goes through multiple electroplating processes to achieve its deep black colour. After electroplating, the varnish is removed via a de-masking process that dissolves the varnish without affecting the rest of the dial. The result is dial markings that appear etched into the dial surface, revealing the material beneath.

The case of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat maintains the same form as the other modern Extra Plat models, measuring 38.6mm x 35.5mm, 7.7mm thick, with a 20mm lug width. Crafted from 5N 18k rose gold, the case features an anti-reflective flat sapphire crystal covering the dial, a sapphire display case back, and 30 metres of water resistance. The watch comes with a black calfskin leather strap secured with an 18k 5N gold pin buckle.

Inside is the Calibre DR002, developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. The movement was developed specifically for this case, resulting in a shaped movement measuring 31mm x 28mm, and 3.1mm thick. The movement is decorated with wide Geneva striping and bevelled and polished edges applied by hand. The DR002 operates at 4 Hz and has a 65-hour power reserve.

The more widely known metal-toned Daniel Roth dials recall the famed watchmaker’s tenure at Breguet, showing both Roth’s inspiration from historic watchmaking and his influence on the brand. While the dial construction and design are largely the same on this new model compared to the previous Extra Plat watches, something about a black dial makes an otherwise traditional watch feel an order of magnitude more modern. Add to that the striking contrast of a black gilt dial with a rose gold base plate, rose gold hands and rose gold case, and the watch turns into an unmistakable modern stunner, balancing just the right amount of flash and restraint.

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt pricing and availability

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt is part of Daniel Roth’s releases for Geneva Watch Days 2026, and is now available from Daniel Roth boutiques. Price: CHF 55,000