Daniel Roth is adding a new expression to its Extra Plat collection, revisiting a historic dial-making technique with the launch of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt.
At a price of CHF 55,500 excluding taxes, the new model combines the maison’s signature double-ellipse case with a black gilt dial, 5N rose gold and its hand-finished DR002 manufacture movement.
The launch continues Daniel Roth’s focus on traditional craftsmanship following the brand’s revival in 2023 with the support of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. While the Extra Plat collection is built around the founder’s philosophy of refined simplicity and ultra-thin dress watches, the new model places the dial firmly at the centre of the design.
The defining feature is the gilt dial, a technique in which the numerals and inscriptions are not simply printed onto the surface. Instead, they are revealed from the solid gold base beneath the dial’s black finish, creating a sense of depth that changes with the light.
The process is particularly demanding. The Roman numerals, Daniel Roth name and individual dial number are first masked with varnish before the dial undergoes multiple electroplating treatments to achieve its deep black colour. Once the masking is removed, the underlying gold is revealed, giving the indications the appearance of emerging from within the dial.
Beneath the black surface is a guilloché pinstripe pattern, adding another layer of texture and reflection. The effect is designed to be impossible to replicate through conventional pad printing, with the gold elements appearing to sit beneath the surface rather than on top of it.
The technique reflects Daniel Roth’s wider “Montre Objet d’Art” philosophy, in which traditional watchmaking and decorative craftsmanship are treated as integral parts of the object rather than simply finishing touches.
The 38.6 x 35.5mm case is crafted from 5N rose gold and measures just 7.7mm thick. Gold hands complement the gilt dial, while a black leather strap reinforces the contrast between the warm case and dark dial.
Inside, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt is powered by the DR002, a manual-winding manufacture calibre developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.
Measuring 3.1mm thick, the movement comprises 143 components and 21 jewels and operates at 4Hz. It delivers a 65-hour power reserve and can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Finishing includes hand-executed bevelling and defined inner angles across the bridges, maintaining the restrained but highly detailed approach associated with Daniel Roth’s modern revival.
The DR002 was designed specifically for the slender proportions of the Extra Plat’s double-ellipse case, reflecting the collection’s emphasis on achieving a balance between thinness, mechanical performance and traditional craftsmanship.
The new Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt measures 38.6mm by 35.5mm and is water resistant to 30 metres.
With its combination of a solid-gold gilt dial, hand-finished movement and distinctive double-ellipse case, the new model offers a particularly focused expression of Daniel Roth’s modern identity – one rooted in the founder’s historic design language while placing renewed emphasis on artisanal execution.