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Rolex’s Day-Date wears new gold while Patek Philippe’s Gold Ellipse flaunts a green dial


Rolex has given the Day-Date a new metal: Jubilee Gold, a proprietary 18K alloy developed and produced in-house. Softer in tone, with hues between yellow, white and rose gold, it makes its debut on the Day-Date 40 with a light green aventurine dial.

The 40mm Oyster case keeps the formula intact, with a fluted bezel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with Cyclops lens and 100m water resistance. It is paired with the signature President bracelet in matching gold.

The attention-grabbing dial is cut from natural aventurine stone, has a pale green shimmer and is set with 10 baguette-cut diamond hour markers. Inside is the calibre 3255, Rolex’s self-winding movement with a 70-hour power reserve, Chronergy escapement and instantaneous day and date display.

Price: 50,820 Swiss francs (S$82,600)

Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune at watchmaking event Watches and Wonders 2026 in Geneva recently. The 42mm white-gold watch combines the maison’s 24-hour Jour/Nuit display with a moon-phase complication, both shown on a dial shaped around rotating discs.

The watch was developed over four years. Its dial uses black Murano aventurine glass, mother-of-pearl and guilloche elements, with a yellow-gold sun, white stars and a white-mother-of-pearl moon. A pusher reveals the moon on demand.

The movement of the Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune took four years to develop.

The movement of the Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune took four years to develop.

PHOTO: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

On the back, a white-gold engraving suggests the moon’s rugged surface, and the sapphire crystal above the oscillating weight carries a miniature enamel Earth with hand-painted planets on a guilloche background.

Price: Upon request

Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar combines the brand’s signature twin retrograde day-and-date display with a perpetual calendar and astronomical moon phase. Housed in a 40mm pink-gold case, it pairs classical complications with the brand’s modern, openworked design language.

Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar combines the brand’s signature twin retrograde day-and-date display with a perpetual calendar and astronomical moon phase.

Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar combines the brand’s signature twin retrograde day-and-date display with a perpetual calendar and astronomical moon phase.

PHOTO: ROGER DUBUIS

Powering the watch is the new in-house automatic RD850 calibre, which has a 60-hour power reserve and 438 components. It also adds a month corrector for easier setting. The perpetual calendar automatically accounts for varying month lengths and leap years, requiring no correction until 2100 if properly adjusted.

At six o’clock sits the astronomical moon phase, calibrated to the lunar cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. It is accurate to within one day over 122 years before needing adjustment. The movement carries the Poincon de Geneve, certifying both its Geneva origin and high finishing standards.

Price: $155,000

Patek Philippe’s new Golden Ellipse has a dial with an olive-green sunburst finish.

Patek Philippe’s new Golden Ellipse has a dial with an olive-green sunburst finish.

PHOTO: PATEK PHILIPPE

Patek Philippe has given the Golden Ellipse a subtle but effective update for 2026, introducing two white-gold references with a new olive-green sunburst dial. 

The new releases are the 5738G-001 in the larger 34.5 by 39.5mm format and the returning 3738/100G-014 in the more traditional 31.1 by 35.6mm size, proportions closely associated with the collection’s late-1970s peak.

Both are just 5.9mm thick and powered by Patek Philippe’s ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240, fitted with a 22K gold off-centre micro-rotor and a minimum 48-hour power reserve.

The dial is the highlight. Its olive-green sunburst finish shifts subtly in the light, while white-gold baton markers and cheveu hands keep the display clean and balanced. The two models come with matching olive-green calfskin straps with cream contrast stitching.

Price: $61,500 (5738G-001), $58,000 (3738/100G-014)

Longines has given its HydroConquest dive watch a proper refresh and the changes are more than skin-deep. The new 2026 generation comes in 39mm and 42mm sizes, both trimmed to 11.7mm thick and rated to 300m of water resistance.

The dial is cleaner, with the old Arabic numerals dropped in favour of applied markers and lume-filled hands. Dial and bezel colour options include black, blue, green, slate grey and a frosted blue sunray.

The bezel comes with a ceramic insert, while the caseback stays solid rather than displaying style. Buyers can opt for a classic H-link steel bracelet or a Milanese mesh, both with a double-folding clasp and micro-adjustment.

The new Longines HydroConquest has a cleaner dial, with applied markers and lume-filled hands.

The new Longines HydroConquest has a cleaner dial, with applied markers and lume-filled hands.

PHOTO: LONGINES

Inside is the Longines calibre L888.5, a self-winding movement with a silicon balance spring, 72 hours of power reserve and magnetic resistance said to be 10 times the ISO 764 benchmark. 

Price: $2,890 (bracelet), $3,000 (Milanese mesh)

De Bethune has given the DB28xs a darker new expression with the DB28xs Dark Sand, a compact 38.7mm model in matte anthracite zirconium. It retains the collection’s openworked architecture and floating lugs, but swops the brighter look of earlier versions for something more restrained and technical.

The dial combines black sandblasted titanium with circular satin-brushed surfaces to create depth without excess detail. Mauve-toned titanium hour markers add contrast, while the brand’s signature deltoid bridge remains the visual centrepiece. As on other DB28 models, the crown is positioned at 12 o’clock.

The dial of the DB28xs Dark Sand combines black sandblasted titanium with circular satin-brushed surfaces.

The dial of the DB28xs Dark Sand combines black sandblasted titanium with circular satin-brushed surfaces.

PHOTO: DE BETHUNE

Inside is the hand-wound calibre DB2115V13, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a six-day power reserve. It features De Bethune’s titanium balance wheel with white-gold weights, a flat terminal-curve hairspring, a silicon escape wheel and the brand’s triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system.

The caseback includes a linear power-reserve indicator and anthracite microlight finishing.

Price: $157,000



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