Gucci showed up to Geneva this year playing two very different games at once, and pulling off both.
The Horsebit returns in five variants built around a slim 27 mm x 23 mm case. Two lean into jewelry territory, pairing a sculptural polished steel chain bracelet with either a black or silver dial; a burgundy resin crown accent keeps things from feeling too safe. Two more go the leather strap route—one in deep burgundy with a matching dial, one in powder-pink against silver—while a gold-plated edition with a yellow gold case and black leather closes things out.
The Bamboo collection, fitted to a compact 22 mm x 17 mm case, spans four versions: a classic wooden bracelet with white dial, two stainless steel bracelet options in white or black, and a bicolor pairing a yellow gold-plated case with white dial. Small, but mighty.
The four new G-Timeless Métiers d’Art pieces are where things get interesting. Two feature featherwork by French artist Nelly Saunier, who works exclusively with naturally molted feathers, each hand-selected for hue and texture, including a crane in rose gold plumage over Grand Feu enamel and a toucan scene rendered in a tonal blue and aquamarine gradient (pictured at top). A Flora print model layers micro-painting, hand-engraving, and gemstone inlay across a white gold base clad in onyx, with a diamond-set tourbillon at 12. A fourth draws from the house’s archival Animalia prints, with a rose gold tiger prowling through hand-painted foliage across mother-of-pearl.
Rounding things out: a new Gucci 25H skeleton watch ringed in hand-cut rainbow baguette sapphires, graduated in tone around the open-worked dial. At 8.4 mm thick, it manages to be both restrained and a riot of color—a fitting summary of Gucci’s whole Geneva moment.
(Photos courtesy of Gucci)
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