Audemars Piguet continues its embrace of the stone dial trend with two new versions of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38 mm. One pairs yellow gold with gold obsidian, its dark surface enlivened by shimmering mineral inclusions; the other combines pink gold with mirror-polished black onyx and baguette-cut diamond markers.
Neither breaks new ground, but both put the Code 11.59’s restrained dial layout to good use, leaving the stone to do most of the work. They retain the compact dimensions of the existing 38 mm model, but dispense with the date thanks to the automatic cal. 5909.
Initial thoughts
Neither model is particularly surprising given Audemars Piguet’s ongoing rollout of watches with natural stone dials. The mineral-and-baguette format of the pink gold 38 mm Code 11.59, for example, mirrors that of two 41 mm models launched previously with malachite and sodalite dials.
The restrained dial layout of the Code 11.59 gives the stone room to stand out, while the 38 mm case suits the dressier character of these variations.
The two treatments offer different kinds of appeal. The obsidian model relies on texture and glittering gold flecks, while the onyx version is more formal, with a uniformly black surface that emphasises the baguette-cut diamond markers.
At US$57,500 in yellow gold or US$68,500 in pink gold with diamond indices, however, both represent a substantial premium over the standard 38 mm models for what is essentially an aesthetic upgrade. That said, they are priced fairly relative to other offerings with gold obsidian and baguette-set dials.
Stone Codes
The trend for stone dials has been going on for long enough that it’s worth questioning whether it might be running its course. Audemars Piguet has long been at the forefront of this fad, and the latest variants of the 38 mm Code 11.59 feel like they could have been part of the collection for years.
That’s especially true of the 18k pink gold model and its onyx-and-baguette dial, which takes after the malachite and sodalite dials released earlier this year on the larger 41 mm models. The mirror-finished onyx dial almost resembles black enamel, and the large baguette-cut diamond markers are simple but appealing, fitting into the emergent popularity of gem-set dials.
Its yellow gold sibling eschews diamond indices in exchange for a sunray-finished dial made of gold obsidian — a colourway used recently by Gérald Genta. But in this case, the gold-flecked theme extends from the volcanic glass dial to both the dial flange and the black alligator strap, which benefit from a dusting of gold-coloured specks.
The Audemars Piguet cal. 5900, seen here in the 38 mm Code 11.59 case
Both models are powered by the cal. 5909 — the date-less version of the cal. 5900 in the standard 38 mm Code 11.59 reviewed in February. It’s a high-end compact movement produced by Vaucher to Audemars Piguet specifications, and while it could stand to be a bit larger given the size of the case, it still offers a convenient 60-hour power reserve and tidy industrial-haute horlogerie finishing.
Key facts and price
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm
Ref. 77410BA.OO.A604CR.01 (yellow gold)
Ref. 77410OR.OO.A001CR.01 (pink gold)
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 9.6 mm
Material: 18k yellow or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: Cal. 5909
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Alligator with pin buckle
Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: US$57,500 (yellow gold), US$68,500 (pink gold) excluding taxes
For more, visit AudemarsPiguet.com.