Vacheron Constantin is Switzerland’s oldest watch company and one arm of the so-called “Holy Trinity” of elite brands – along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. It thus has more history than any other brand, and really stands for traditional, classic watchmaking. That said, Vacheron has explored a lot of creative sidebars in its recent past. From a watch with a perfumed strap (a collaboration with French perfumer Dominique Ropion) to a bespoke series of dials with dials decorated with detailed miniaturized paintings of master artworks, the company has displayed plenty of creativity on the metiers side in recent years. But the brand, at its core, remains essentially a master of the elegant, classic, perfectly finished dress watch. It’s 20th Anniversary Patrimony series reminds us of that essential core value.
There is a subtle twist to the classic aesthetic, something that places it in the moment, even while looking back at the 1950s, 60s and 70s, the golden age of watch design. The anniversary Patrimony is yellow gold, a trend that is so strong at the moment you’d think it was 1975 again. Piaget, for example, introduced a full gold version of its Polo, first launched in 1979, earlier this year to great fanfare. Watches with solid gold cases and bracelets are everywhere, from new introductions to auction catalogs for the upcoming fall season sales. The Vacheron twist comes courtesy of French designer, architect and Vacheron ambassador Ora ïto, with whom Vacheron collaborated for the anniversary Patrimony. He designed the dial as a series of concentric circles in a gold tone-on-tone grooved pattern, punctuated by a chapter ring made of gold pearls for minute markers and applied gold indexes. A monotone dial has never been more exciting and subtle at the same time. The burgundy calfskin strap is given a raised pattern of rectangular shapes with softened angles that reinforce the vintage character of the watch. It was inspired by graphic motifs from the 1970s and designed to contrast with the circular geometry of the case and dial.
The Patrimony, originally launched in 2004, was inspired by a Vacheron design from 1957, but the new anniversary piece is fully a piece of the moment, even if the current lust for gold is itself a retro trend. The multi-decade influences are a testament to the lasting appeal of classic design. The 20th Anniversary Patrimony is a 100-piece limited edition, priced at $35,300.