What We Know
There’s been a lot of talk about Zenith recently, and most of it isn’t centered around new releases. But today is a brief pause from the news, the speculation, and the uncertainty with the second entry in the brand’s “Double Signed” program. While the program kicked off this summer with a killer collaboration between Zenith and Japanese independent Naoya Hida, this new edition goes stateside as the brand teams up with California-based independent watchmaker Josh Shapiro for the G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With J.N. Shapiro.
The G.F.J Calibre 135 platform continues to serve as the canvas for the collaboration, meaning that the design of the 39.15mm diameter rose gold case remains the same as all past versions, with a thickness of 10.5mm and a lug-to-lug of 45.75mm. That aesthetic pillar leaves room for the dial to take center stage, here made completely in Shapiro’s workshop in a recognizably Shapiro execution. There are three hand-turned guilloché patterns on the solid silver dial—barleycorn on the outer periphery, basketweave in the center, and Shapiro’s “Infinity Weave” design in the small seconds subdial. It’s all broken up by contrasting rose gold rings, applied on the dial along with the hour markers and branded plaques.
Of course, the back of the watch shows off the COSC-certified, manually winding Calibre 135 movement, which offers a 72-hour power reserve at 2.5 Hz, as well as a Breguet overcoil on the variable-inertia balance wheel and hacking seconds. A new twist in this Shapiro collaboration comes in the decoration of the movement. While Naoya Hida’s work was relegated to the dial of this collaboration, Shapiro extends its contribution to the distinctive damaskeening of the Calibre 135’s bridges. Damaskeening, of course, is a decorative technique that pays tribute to the decoration found traditionally in American watchmaking, now seen here on the Cal. 135.
Like with the previous collaboration, this watch comes with a bunch of straps, all in neutrals to complement the watch—a brown Cordovan leather strap, a beige nubuck alligator leather strap, and a black calf leather strap. The G.F.J.’s bracelet is also available on request, rendered in matching rose gold. The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with J.N. Shapiro is limited to 25 individually numbered pieces and priced at CHF 68,900.
What We Think
With news that Zenith is turning its focus towards a higher price point in the next evolution (and downsizing) of the brand, I think projects like this continue to exhibit a level of intention and curation that will be important in defining how the brand fits into the conversation in the coming years as it navigates a period where much of its current identity is lost. I loved the first collaboration with Naoya Hida—in fact, that might have been one of my favorite watches of this year—and it’s a pleasant surprise to see another collaboration in this series announced so soon after. As expected, this one feels wonderfully J.N. Shapiro, and I think the decoration by Shapiro’s atelier, in addition to the work on the dial, is really quite impressive. The damaskeening perfectly complements the architecture of the Cal. 135, adding a beautiful texture to frame that oversized balance wheel.
I have a hunch that, as with the Naoya Hida collaboration, this small run of 25 pieces will be largely, if not entirely, pre-sold to clients. As Zenith continues to produce these halo product collaborations in both scarcity and price point, I hope that it will create a distinct enough segment to then work on its standard Cal. 135 offerings in a more accessible (more realistically, in terms of production numbers) format. No, we won’t see an “inexpensive” version of this line anytime soon, but as Zenith keeps devising compelling collaborations like these, it will also have to make sure other prospective clients outside of the circle have more to dream about at the same time.
The Basics
Brand: Zenith x J.N. Shapiro
Model: G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed
Reference Number: 18.1865-1-0135/01.C215
Diameter: 39.15mm
Thickness: 10.5mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Dial Color: Silvery-white
Indexes: Applied
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 5 ATM
Strap/Bracelet: Three leather straps with 18k rose gold pin buckle
The Movement
Caliber: 135
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 3.5 Hz (18,000 VpH)
Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC-certified and regulated to +/- 2 seconds per day
Additional Details: Damaskeening done at Shapiro’s California workshop
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 68,900
Availability: Limited
Limited Edition: Yes, 25 individually numbered pieces
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