Zenith G.F.J. Jasper & Tantalum

Tom Austin

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• Zenith expands the jaw-dropping G.F.J. from a single watch into a fully fledged collection, introducing new cases in tantalum and yellow gold.
• Sticking with stone dials, the tantalum model features a black onyx dial, while the yellow gold model features a green jasper bloodstone dial.
• Both new G.F.J.’s will be quite rare, with the yellow gold model limited to 161 pieces, and the tantalum limited to just 20 pieces. 

Shockingly, it’s been a year since we were introduced to Zenith’s achingly cool G.F.J., with its incredible lapis lazuli, mother-of-pearl, and brick guilloché dial. It was released to mark Zenith’s 160th anniversary and was called the G.F.J. to honour the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. And, if the dial alone wasn’t cool enough, Zenith secretly stole the show with the debut of the Calibre 135, a movement modelled on a serial-award winning movement originally from the 1940s. Since its launch, Zenith has been fairly quiet about the G.F.J., just letting that blue dial show up now and again and ingrain itself in collectors’ minds. Until now, that is, where for Watches & Wonders 2026, a new pair of G.F.J.’s have entered the fold, this time with new materials and dials.

How do you take a watch like the original G.F.J. and make it even better? Well, to put it simply, give it some new case materials and putting new stone dials in there would be a damn good start, but thankfully, Zenith has gone to a bit more effort than that. Inspired by 1950s chronometers, the 39.15mm case features a thin, stepped bezel and curved lugs, which give it a true classic feel, especially given its subtle 10.5mm thickness. It still manages to evoke that vintage style, while the new materials lend it a more modern aesthetic overall.

Two new materials are on offer; the first being yellow gold, which is limited to 161 pieces. The second is in tantalum, notorious for its challenging manufacturing properties, and is therefore limited to just 20 pieces. Water resistance for both cases is rated to 50 metres, but neither is exactly designed for adventures; these are strictly statement pieces, and quite the impression they make, too.

Just like the insanely blue dial from before, these new G.F.J.’s feature a gobsmacking pair of dials, which pair even better with the case materials. The dial’s construction is the same as before: in the gold Jasper model, a central disc finished in bloodstone, a dark green jasper with vibrant red iron oxide inclusions. Naturally, no two dials are the same, and this is further accentuated by the green mother-of-pearl inlay that makes up the oversized small seconds dial. Finally, the dial’s periphery is finished in a green brick guilloché, modelled on the brick façade of the Zenith Manufacture in Le Locle, which is topped with yellow gold detailing.

The tantalum model is probably the most understated and refined G.F.J. we’ve seen so far, like a proper tuxedo watch. The dial is constructed the same as the others, aside from the ridiculously deep black onyx centre section and the small seconds dial in black mother-of-pearl. Adorning the brick-guilloché outer ring, however, is a set of 11 trapeze-cut diamonds for hour markers, meaning that while the yellow gold model does the shouting, the tantalum model is the real showstopper, but you have to just take your time and look a little closer.

Beneath the large exhibition caseback sits the Calibre 135 movement. Naturally, this is manually wound, because an automatic movement just wouldn’t make sense here. It’s the same as in last year’s model; however, there’s one distinct difference: the finish. Its bridges are now finished with Côtes de Genève and ruthenium plating, rather than the engraved brick pattern seen on the 160th-anniversary model. It’s safe to say that it’s difficult to be disappointed by this, because it’s a beautiful movement anyway, and the finishing is superbly delicate, just as you would expect.

Unlike several of Zenith’s other in-house calibres, the 135 features a nice steady beat rate; there’s no rushing going on here. Beating at 18,000 Vph (2.5Hz), the movement manages a substantial 72-hour power reserve, which escapes through an oversized 13mm balance wheel, evocative of the movement’s mid-century roots. Nevertheless, this is very much a modern movement, as its accuracy is regulated to ±2 seconds per day and is COSC-certified.

Finishing both watches is a pair of dedicated nubuck alligator leather straps, finished in beige for the yellow gold watch, and dark blue for the tantalum model. That’s not all, though. The gold model arrives with an additional black calfskin leather strap and a vibrant green alligator strap to match that insane dial. The tantalum model also has some additional straps in a more understated black or grey, of course. All straps come complete with pin buckles, and the gold model can even be purchased with a full 18-carat yellow gold bracelet, if you really want to go all out.

Zenith G.F.J. Jasper and Tantalum pricing and availability

The Zenith G.F.J. Jasper and Tantalum are now available from Zenith boutiques, with the yellow gold model limited to 161 pieces, and the tantalum model limited to 20 pieces. Price: CHF 48,900/€54,000/US$51,900 (yellow gold) CHF 73,900/€82,700/ US$83,400 (tantalum)