Platinum has quietly become one of the most prized materials in modern watchmaking. Denser and heavier than gold, it gives a watch a reassuring heft on the wrist, and its cool, silvery-white lustre has a depth that other metals struggle to match. It is rare, naturally hypoallergenic and resistant to tarnish, so a platinum case does not fade or oxidise with time. It simply develops a soft, satiny patina, which many collectors see as part of its charm. Hard to work and expensive to produce, it rewards makers who have the skill to finish it properly, and it has become a favourite for pieces that aim for understated luxury rather than flash. In a market where gold often dominates, platinum speaks quietly, and watch lovers have learned to listen.
Few houses have a stronger claim to the metal than Breguet. The Maison’s new Classique Souscription Platinum follows the gold version that won the Aiguille d’Or at the GPHG in 2025, and remains faithful to the spirit of the model Abraham-Louis Breguet imagined at the end of the 18th century. The Subscription watch takes its name from his innovative sales system, which allowed customers to reserve a watch by paying a deposit.
Also Read: Breguet Reimagines The Marine 5517 And Marine Chronograph 5527
More than two centuries later, that historic timepiece still inspires the Manufacture through reinterpretations that blend heritage with contemporary craftsmanship. The new edition is identical in all technical aspects to the 2025 gold version, but swaps its warm-toned case for the colder look of 950 platinum. The choice is historically apt, since Breguet already used platinum in some of his souscription pocket watches and is believed to have been the first to adopt it in watchmaking.
The case measures 40mm in diameter and 10.8 mm in thickness, with a classic three-part construction. The lugs are integrated within the case middle, with no soldered straight lugs, and the sides are finely brushed rather than fluted, a deliberate choice to make the watch sleeker and more ergonomic. A polished, domed bezel frames a sapphire crystal with a “chevé” profile, a reference to another Breguet innovation: a crystal thinner and less domed than others, with a relatively flat surface and a bevelled edge. The back also has a sapphire crystal, framed by a “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché motif, and water resistance is 30 metres. The dial keeps the same design, display and materials as the gold edition.
A gold base carries crisp white grand feu enamel, while the Breguet logo, Arabic numerals and minute track are in blue petit feu enamel, replacing the black of the earlier version. Time is shown by a single steel, open-tipped Breguet hand, flame-blued and curved by hand, with a mirror-polished chamfer. At 6 o’clock, visible only at certain angles, the secret Breguet signature, the word Souscription and the serial number are engraved with a diamond-point pantograph, a precision tool with articulated arms. Turn the watch over and, framed by a platinum ring, is the in-house, hand-wound calibre VS00, modelled after the movement of the 1796 Souscription pocket watch and coated in Breguet gold.
Its 144 components and 21 jewels fit into a diameter of 35.6 mm and a height of 5.7 mm, with a large central ratchet held by an oversized triangular bridge, two stepped bridges for the first wheel and balance wheel, and two smaller triangular bridges for the gear train, in the spirit of the Tradition watches. It beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, or 3 Hz, with a non-magnetic Nivachron balance spring with a Breguet overcoil, classic five-spoke Breguet wheels and a modern anti-shock device shaped like the old pare-chute. A single barrel delivers a 96-hour power reserve.
The plate and bridges are shot-blasted, the screws are blued steel, and the central ratchet wheel is engraved in negative with a reprography of Breguet’s own writings. The watch is worn on a navy blue, large-scaled alligator leather strap with a discreet gradient effect and a navy small-scaled alligator lining, closed by a platinum pin buckle. The Breguet Classique Souscription Platinum, reference 2026PT/28/9W6, is priced at CHF 58,000 or EUR 68,000. It shows what a watch can be when it is reduced to its essentials: one hand, one idea and a metal chosen for its purity. Like the original, it asks its owner to slow down and read time the way Breguet first imagined it.
Published At: