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Bring a Loupe: A Black-Dialed Rose Gold Patek Ref. 96, A Movado Dial That Led To The Royal Oak, And A Pair Of French Auction Finds


In the vintage era, Movado used only the best case and dial suppliers in Switzerland — the same companies making components for Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. One of which was the master dialmaker Stern Créations SA. Movado contracted Stern for many of their dials across the catalog, but in the early 1970s, the brand reached out to a guilloché dial specialist to execute this, a Saint Christopher dial. La Nationale, the guilloché expert, was located next door to Stern in Geneva. Due to the unfortunate death of a craftsman at La Nationale, the company was unable to complete Movado’s order for roughly 50 of these dials. So, in 1971, La Nationale subcontracted Stern to make this batch of dials, gifting seven machines for this specific type of guilloché engraving and 300 pattern designs to go with them.





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