Welcome to pink jewellery 2.0. Less romantic and less sweet than before, there is a new way to wear the sometime saccharine shade. It’s out with florals and in with surprising shapes – from the architectural to the geometric. Case in point: Cartier, and the legacy brand’s new Clash de Cartier creations. At the maison’s design studios in Paris, the spiky rose gold studs of hoop earrings, a ring and a pendant necklace have been matched with peach pink chalcedony beads.
Tiffany & Co.’s Lock collection was originally inspired by a piece of hardware, a utilitarian padlock that dates back to 1883 and was found in the company archives. Now, rose gold Tiffany Lock earrings, a bangle and two pendant necklaces are accented with deep pink sapphires.
.png)
Pink sapphires, of a powdery hue, also feature in Repossi jewellery, including an ear cuff. This and other pink sapphire-set pieces are part of Repossi’s Chromatic Sapphires collection, which was first presented in 2022, and is a partnership with Moyo Gems and the TAWOMA (Tanzania Women Miners Association) programme. Elsewhere, a large, oval-cut pink sapphire of 4.52 carats is the focal point of the white gold and diamond Armure de Saphire Rose high jewellery ring by Van Cleef & Arpels. The pink gem is surrounded by a robust cord cast from yellow gold.
“I recently created a one-of-a-kind ring featuring an oval-cut pink diamond, something that stayed true to my DNA, always clean and bold, never sweet and flowery,” the Greek jewellery designer Nikos Koulis explains. A one-off design, the ring he describes is organic in shape and frames an important rose coloured diamond in mirror-polished rose gold, and many pavé-set white diamonds.