Happy Watches and Wonders Geneva Week for those who celebrate! With a madcap week of previewing the new novelties showing at the Palexpo in Geneva, Switzerland, we begin the festivities with an anniversary milestone: Rolex’s 100 years of the Oyster.
Considered as one of Rolex’s fundamental models, the Oyster was introduced in 1926 as the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. Over the years, improvements have been made to the case, and today, the Oyster is identified by traits that include a Triplock/Twinlock winding crown (a supped-up protective system); crown guard (protects the winding crown); ringlock system (reinforced inner capsule); and so o
For such an enduring model, Rolex released several Oyster watches (and then some).
Oyster Perpetual 41
Marking the Oyster’s centenary, we have a yellow Rolesor, which hearkens to the look of the early Oyster watches. You have a combo of yellow gold (bezel and winding crown) and Oystersteel (case and bracelet).
Bolstered by the Twinlock winding crown and a hermetically screwed down caseback, the watch is waterproofed at the depth of 100m. The timepiece is equipped with a calibre 3230 self-winding mechanical movement (resistant to strong magnetic fields; shock resistant; power reserve of 70 hours) and an Oyster bracelet that is outfitted with the Oysterclasp.
On the winding crown, you have “100” in relief. You’ll find another mention of the Oyster’s centenary on the dial at 6 o’clock, replacing “Swiss Made” with “100 years”.
Oyster Perpetual 36
Taking a rare detour into the colourful, this particular model is decorated with the Jubilee motif that was introduced in the late ’70s. The letters of the Rolex name are arranged in a “contrasting interplay of no fewer than ten colours” on a lacquered dial. Colours are applied one after another, the letters positioned exactly.
Made from 904L Oystersteel, this special alloy has an incredible sheen and has anti-corrosion properties. The timepiece is finished off with a calibre 3230 movement, waterproof up to 100m, and with an Oyster bracelet.
Oyster Perpetual 28 & 34
Gold is the game here. The Oyster Perpetual 28 with the green stone lacquer dial is fashioned from 18 ct yellow gold, and the Oyster Perpetual 34 with a blue stone lacquer dial in 18 ct Everose gold. These 18 ct gold alloys are created in Rolex’s own foundry (yes, they have their own foundry).
The cases and bracelets of these new models are primarily satin finished, a first that this technique is applied to the watches made entirely in precious metal. Another first is that the hour markers at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock are made from natural stone—heliotrope for the Oyster Perpetual 28 and dumortierite for the Oyster Perpetual 34. An ogive cut is given to the stones, which gives bullnose-shaped ends that reduce reflection and brings out the structure and hue.
The Oyster Perpetual 28 and 34 are powered by a self-winding calibre 2232 and Oyster bracelets.
Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41
Now presented as a white Rolesor version, it’s striking ombré dial is a result of lacquering, where green lacquer is used on the base plate, and a colour gradient is achieved with a black lacquer sprayed in a concentric motion.
With a green dial, the white inscriptions stand out like my uncle with a combover. Chromalight index hour markers adorn the dial, which is encircled with a fluted bezel. Like all Oyster models, it has an Oyster bracelet fitted with an Oysterclasp and is powered by a calibre 3235 movement.
Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II
A new generation of the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II is available in Oystersteel or in 18 ct yellow gold. The Yacht-Master II has a redesigned display, allows for enhanced legibility and easier manipulation. To reduce reflection, the dial has a lacquered white matt surface. For better readability, the countdown minute and seconds hands now turn counterclockwise. On the flange, is the countdown scale, and the function is programmed by a lower pusher.
The self-winding calibre 4162 movement powers the Yacht-Master II, and includes the Chronergy escapement (a high-efficiency escapement system that improve the precision and reliability of mechanical watches). It has a power reserve of 72 hours.
…And the Rest
We finish off Rolex’s novelties with a new gold alloy on the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 and an enamelled dial with a ceramic and platinum mix on the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona.
Historically, the Day-Date is only made from precious metals like 18 ct gold or 950 platinum), this Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 is no different. Crafted from a new 18 ct gold alloy developed in the brand’s own foundry, the alloy is called “Jubilee Gold”, and has tones of “tender yellow, warm grey and soft pink”. The hue is accentuated with a green aventurine dial and is massed out with 10 baguette-cut diamonds.
The Day-Date 40 is equipped with calibre 3255, and a fluted bezel; it’s paired with a President bracelet featuring a concealed Crownclasp.
For the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, it comes in a Rolesium version. A white enamelled dial stands out from a gleaming Cerachrom bezel with a redesigned tachymetric scale, where the numerals are displayed horizontally and are inscribed in a contemporary font.
The middle case and bracelet are made from Oystersteel, the metal encircling the watch’s Cerachrom bezel, from platinum. A calibre 4131 powers the Cosmograph Daytona. While it’s a watch associated with the road, having an Oyster association puts it over the top.